Pups $3.99/each
Weaned $4.99/each
Small $5.99/each
Medium $6.99/each
Large $7.99/each
Jumbo $8.99/each
Colossal $11.99/each
Super Colossal $13.99/each

Medium $3.99/each
Large $4.99/each
Jumbo $5.99/each

African Soft Fur Rats

Sometimes you get a picky eater. Hey, it happens, we all have things we’d rather be eating. ASF’s are an excellent option for such cases. They are a great source of food for medium sized snakes and a natural prey for Ball pythons and other African animals.  Natal rats are often referred to as a “miracle food”.

Have a reptile and looking for some information? Don’t have one and are curious? Check out some care sheets for the more common scaly or slimy house mate.

Origin: Primarily within Pakistan but they can also be found in Afghanistan and southern parts of India. Their environment is very hot and arid; the terrain is usually a desert and/or clay-like surface. During the day, they hide in cracks, caves and crevices to sleep and keep cooler. Once the sun has gone down they come out to hunt.

Life span: 15-20 years under the best conditions

Tank size: An adult leopard gecko needs 10 square inches of space. A 10-gallon tank is a great space. Two males should never be kept in an enclosure together; they could end up fighting over territory. Do not house too many young geckos together because they have ravenous appetites and could decide their cagemates look like good eating if they’re hungry. A hide box, filled with moist potting soil, is a requirement for the habitat of a Leopard Gecko. Leopard geckos require a shallow dish or bowl that won’t tip over easily. You can use something like a jar lid or you could get as complicated as a hollow water dish that serves as a secondary hiding spot

Heat/Lamps: The leopard geckos’ hidebox should be kept at a temperature of 88-90° Fahrenheit and the other side of the cage should be about 5-10° cooler. You can reach the required temperatures by placing an under-tank heater (a UTH) on the side of the cage. However, because a UTH can raise temperatures too much, you should purchase a thermostat or rheostat to control the temperature.Leopard geckos do not require Ultra-Violet rays because they receive benefits through their diet. In addition, because they are nocturnal and hide during the day, they don’t normally see the sun.

Substrate:  Leopard geckos require a substrate that won’t hold humidity because they are native to an arid environment. If you’re trying to setup a more natural looking environment for your geckos, try using sifted and washed play-sand

Diet: It is imperative that young geckos eat a healthy diet. Their long-term health is dependent upon their diet within their first year. Young leopard geckos should be fed five to ten appropriately sized food items every day. The food items should be no larger than the width of the reptiles mouth. This holds true in young and old Leopard Geckos. Adult leopard geckos do not eat as much and should be fed two to three times a week. Throw in about 30 crickets and remove any that are uneaten the next day. Crickets or mealworms should form the bulk of the Leopard Gecko’s diet

In addition to the live insects, leopard geckos should also be provided with a calcium supplement. You can gut-load crickets 24-48 hours prior to feeding them to your leopard geckos. Take your crickets and put them in a rubbermaid container and then feed them either chicken feed or cricket food. You can also provide Repti-cal in a dish within the enclosure. The geckos will lick it up when they need calcium. Without a calcium supplement your leopard gecko can quickly develop deformities

Size : 8″-10″.

Origin: Africa

Life span: 20 – 30 years (record – 48 years).

Tank size: 20 gallon or more

Fresh water and at least one hide box are critical

Heat & Lamps:

  • Nocturnal/crepuscular but still need heat to digest
  • Ambient humidity at least 60%
  • Provide a hide box which has a higher humidity to encourage better shedding (75%+)
  • Daytime temperature of 26˚C-32˚C dropping to 22˚C-24˚C at night
  • Under-tank heat pad preferred over an overhead basking light.


Coconut mulch and bark give the best combination of humidity and looks.  Driftwood or a decorative rock can be added to aid the snake during its shed. Can provide a climbing branch or two, some fake greenery, a hide box and a large water bowl for soaking.

Diet: Rats preferred but mice will do; once a week. Size depending on their girth. If your ball python is refusing to eat, just know that it can happen and not to panic. Ball pythons, like many snakes, can go anywhere from 6-9 months without eating, sometimes more. It is concerning if you are a new pet owner, so as always, get your snake a checkup with your veterinarian just to rule out any health issues.

Temperament: Docile and can be shy and very reluctant to bite. They achieved the name ball python because of their habit of curling into a ball if threatened. 

Size: 3 to 5 feet, females are generally larger and heavier bodied than male

Origin: Australia

Life span: average 8-10 years

Tank size:

  • Under 10 inches in length can be housed in a 20gal long aquarium
  • Adult Dragons should be housed in nothing smaller than a 40gal tank
  • Screen lids preferred not glass, plexiglass or wood to cover your cages
  • Screens allow air flow, lighting and heat to work correctly and also allow humidity to escape.

Heat & Lamps:

  • Lighting for 12-14 hours a day, Mercury Vapor bulbs recommended, UVB emitting fluorescent bulbs can be used along with Basking bulbs.
  • UVB light should be placed over the cage and not directed through the glass, (glass will filter all UVB rays).
  • 43˚C for juveniles and can be around 35˚C for adults no higher. At night, 18 or above.


We recommend Reptilite sand only.  It is the only sand we’ve found that has a spherical nature and an oolitic calcium base, making it very digestible.  It is safe for babies and adults.

Diet: Are omnivores

*Note: Any and all food items that your Bearded Dragons eats should be no bigger than the space between their eyes*

  • Baby and juvenile feed from 20-60 small crickets/day but when it stops eating, stop offering.
  • Sub-adult to adult can also offer treats of Locusts, Cockroaches, Mealworms, Waxworms, Zophobas worms, Silkworms, Butterworms, Red worms, Earthworms and just about any other worm available. But Crickets/Superworms and dark leafy greens or vegetables are the staple part of your Dragons diet.
  • Prey items dusted once a week with a calcium/vitamin supplement (with no D3)
  • Prey items dusted once a week with a multivitamin supplement such as Herptivite
  • Give fresh greens daily: spraying the greens with water helps last throughout day

Greens: Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Bok choy, Kale, Turnip greens, Escarole and Chicory are among the easiest to find and the best to use. Spinach should also be avoided as calcium binds to it and will not be digested by your animal.

Veggies: Butternut squash, Yellow squash, Spaghetti squash, Acorn squash, all other varieties of squash, Green beans, Parsnips, Sweet potato, Snow peas and Carrots. Carrots should be used sparingly due to the high amounts of vitamin A. Any food with high amounts of vitamin A should be avoided as reptiles do not absorb a lot of vitamin A.

Fruits can also be used, just avoid any citrus fruit such as oranges and grape fruit.

Temperament: Docile nature

Size: 16-20 inches

Origin: Island of New Caledonia is found in the southeast Pacific, just east of Australia. The island consists of coastal plains with inland forests and mountains. The island, roughly the size of New Jersey, is a typical tropical island, hot and humid.
Life span:  Believed to be 10-15 years unknown since had thought to be extinct and researchers still have first specimens from 1994
Tank size:
  • Babies 10 gallon or smaller volume
  • 4 month to adult recommended 20 gallons volume
  • Screen cages fine, higher the better rather than wide or long
  • Semi-arboreal; spending most of their time in small trees and low shrubs
Heat & Lamps:
  • 22 and 27 (75-80) degrees for most of the year
  • At temperatures of 29 (85) degrees or warmer, crested geckos will become stressed
*two month cooling period is recommended to allow breeding crested geckos to rest. During this period temperatures should be kept at 18 to 21 (65-70) degrees.*
  • 12 to 14 hours of light (10 hours of light in cooling period)
  • Lighting optional, Fluorescent lights can be placed directly on the cage top
  • Unnecessary to use UVB lighting for crested geckos
  • Can keep room temp as long as doesn’t go below 18
  • Substrates that hold humidity such as Eco-Earth (coconut husk) or mosses.
Diet: Both insects and fruits
  • Repashy Crested Gecko Diet; 1 part powder to 2 parts water; includes essential fats, proteins, minerals, and vitamins that cresties need
  • Crested geckos get the other nutrition they need from soft/rotten fruit in the wild. To duplicate this you can add baby food to Crested Gecko Diet. (Must be pure fruit baby food)
  • Optionally offer 10 insects per week; insects no larger than the distance from the geckos nose to eye
  • Offer a dish of Calcium or be sure to dust insects with a calcium powder pure/D3
  • Mist down enclosure daily to give crested geckos a chance to drink from leaves as they may not drink out of water dishes because they are unable to see standing water.
**Checking the Calcium Sacs Crested Geckos store calcium in the roof of the mouth in what are called endolymphatic sacs. You can check these reserves from time to time to monitor the storage level of calcium. This is particularly important for breeding female geckos and should be done periodically regardless of your feeding practices. Temperament: Crested Geckos are very handle able. They tolerate moderate to heavy handling even when they are relatively young. Crested Geckos can drop their tails if handled improperly Size : 5 to 8 inches

Origin: North American species of rat snake
Life span: 12-18 years captive breed
Tank size:
  • Baby corns can happily live in a ten gallon or enclosure of similar size as long as appropriate heating is provided
  • Adult size (about three to four years) require minimum of a twenty gallon long aquarium. Larger aquariums such as a thirty gallon breeder or fifty-five gallon tank are also appropriate.
  • Hiding spots can be made of anything; as long as the snake can completely fit inside the area and hide itself from view- should provide one on each side of tank so it feels safe in both temperatures.

  • Provide one half of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature is around 26-29˚C other half is ok at room temp. Easiest way to do this is with an under tank heater- Can also use above tank light if enclosure does not allow for under tank heater. NO hot rocks as they may cause burns-without a thermo regulator

Substrate: We recommend a combination of  reptile bark and coconut husk for humidity control and appearance.
Diet: Are active feeders –mice should be fed weekly; size depends on girth of snake. Clean water should be available at all times, corn snakes drink often.
Temperament: Corn snakes tolerate a wide variety of environmental conditions, come in a dazzling array of color morphs, and are very easy to breed. “Social” snakes meaning they can be handled often with out stress. Size: 3-5 feet
Origin: Southern and Southeastern Asia
Life span: 10-15 years or more if properly cared for. (record of 30)
Tank size: 10 gallons per 1-3 frogs, one frog all by itself at least 4 or 5 gallons of space
-Amphibian tank: 60% water and 40% land both with hiding places for the toads. (2-4 inches of water) On the land use rounded rocks to help the toad climb out of the water, some moss for your toad to burrow into.
“DO NOT use gravel or any other sharp items in the habitat, they can hurt your frog if swallowed or puncture their skin!”
**The toads are extremely sensitive to chlorine; de-chlorinate any tap water you use in the tank.**
Heat/Lamps: DO NOT USE A HEATER OR A LIGHT THAT HEATS UP! Use a fluorescent bulb with low light as they do not like it bright, and put it outside of the tank, preferably over the side with water. When you feed your toad, put the insects on the land side AWAY FROM THE LIGHT! If they look at the light, it will damage their vision. A heater is not usually necessary as these frogs can handle room temperature, although warmer temperatures are considered more ideal by some (24-25°C). A basking area can be set up with a low wattage lamp (use a thermometer and aim for about 25°C).
Diet: Gut loaded crickets, small worms, or cut up regular worms and guppies (not the fancy ones). Use calcium powder on insects. They do not have extendable tongues, so use their mouths to grab their food and stuff it into their mouths with their forelegs. Do not over feed watch that the frogs do not become overweight.
Temperament: The salts on our skin will hurt your toad and can be fatal. Their oils are slightly toxic and can cause a rash. Fire bellied toads are known to become extremely excited when touched by a human; they are not meant to be touched. Only handle the toad when cleaning the tank. Use latex gloves to take it out and put it in a container that is NOT PLASTIC – the chemicals will harm your toad.
Wash the tank
  • Wash rocks thoroughly in a strainer.
  • Wash tank. Do not use any soaps, you can use really watered down bleach but make sure its smell is completely rinsed from the tank, toads are very sensitive to chemicals.
  • Put the rocks in the bottom of the tank.
  • Put toads back into tank.

Size: About 2 inches (5 cm) Temperament: You can mix these guys with house geckos, green tree frogs or something of similar size, but be careful as they secrete toxins from glands behind the head. In some individuals there is a spot of color, such as green or brown, where these glands are located. For this reason, it is extremely important that any water in the habitat is changed every few days or is filtered as the toxin will build up in the water and can harm the toads. Many species do not seem to be bothered by the toxins if the primary water source is filtered properly.